April 15-21, 1999: In Search of the Old Ones

Grand Gulch, Utah


 
Camp Site at Todie Canyon Trailhead Leaving the Navaho National Monument and Keet Seel on the afternoon of the 14th of April, I first stopped for supplies in the Navaho town of Kayenta before continuing northeast towards Utah--destination: Grand Gulch Primitive Area.

The way to Utah was a wide open expanse of dry, seemingly desolate countryside. After a left turn on highway 261 just north of Mexican Hat I was suprised to see a sheer cliff at least 2000' high in my direct path. Upon reaching the base of the cliff the road turned to gravel and a very steep ascent began. Out of this world.

Around 6 P.M. I pulled into the Kane Gulch Ranger Station only to find them closed. Since I needed to pick up a permit for my planned backpacking trip I set up my tent at the Todie Canyon trailhead for the evening. A very cold evening as I later learned--the temps dropped to 21F. Fortunately I was able to use two sleeping bags--a luxury I could not afford once I had to carry everything on my back.

The next morning I picked up my permit for a mere $8--a flat fee for as long as one chooses to stay in the Gulch.
View from above Todie Canyon
I had hoped to enter Grand Gulch from the Todie Canyon trailhead, though from all reports this access point was rather precipitous. Not a concern for me if alone, but for Sam the wolfdog it posed a problem. In fact he refused to descend through the large boulders, so we were forced to backtrack and drive back to the Kane Gulch Trailhead.

Above Todie CanyonIt was 1030 by the time we were finally underway from Kane Gulch Ranger station. Four miles in we came on the stunning sight of our first Anasazi ruins--"Junction Ruin".

Early view We took our time for a close-up study of the site. Several other parties were there as well. I spoke with one couple (I forget their names) who split their lives between Haines, Alaska and Salt Lake City, Utah. I have spent time in SE Alaska and suggested they might enjoy simply spending their time year round in Haines. They enjoy the skiing in Utah in winter and complained that SE Alaska in winter is a lot like Seattle--dank and dismal.
Kiva Ruin A little ways down the trail and another magificent set of ruins--I climbed a cliff for a closer view.
"Turkey Pen" ruin. The remains of a structure after the mud and daub was long gone. Turkey Pen
Near Arch Heading south through the canyon bottom we passed a natural arch. An intermittent stream flowed down the canyon satisfying our thirst. I've never used the new-fangled filters. Using common sense by never drinking water near cattle or beaver has been good enough for me. A study of Appalachian Trail through hikers showed that approximately 30% using filters contracted giardia, and 30% not using any filters contracted giardia. Those exercising "common sense" in where they drank contracted next to no instances. Use your best judgement.
I set up my tent at the Todie Canyon junction with Grand Gulch. After cooking up some rice for dinner, Sam and I set out to explore Todie Canyon without a backpack for encumbrance. We were rewarded with three sets of ruins.  Ruins on wall
Room with door At first sight they appeared inaccessible, but after hiking a ways up the canyon a route was apparent. The Anasazi normally had an easy access to their cliff dwellings. With a little patience I found the way.

Once ascending to the higher level I found more ruins that I didn't notice from below.


View up Todie from Camp SiteAt right is the view up Todie Canyon from my camp site. Beneath the tree in the center of the photograph was another camp site. When I stood there I could feel a tremendous power. A confluence of the surrounding canyons.
Todie Canyon Junction  Todie Canyon Junction.
Once on the higher level the vista was profound.  In Todie Canyon
Todie Canyon ruins Hiking through the canyons often I would look up in anticipation of sighting some ruins. Sometimes it would take a while before the ancient walls would become apparent.
Reaching the end of Todie Canyon. Sam leaped onto this patch of ice (!) Never seeing the sun in the course of the day this pool of water beneath a dryfall was frozen.  Sam on thin ice
Sam on ice with Dryfall in background After Sam had landed on the ice patch he was not so confident. I snapped these photos half expecting to catch him plunging through. Surprisingly, the ice was strong enough to support him.That evening after the sun was no longer hitting in the canyon it got quite cold. I put on hat, gloves and coat.

 

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