The next morning I was up and about just before dawn. Looking up towards the top of the canyon walls I imagined how nice it would be to see the sun rise from the east. Seeing a clear route to the top I began scrambling up the southeast corner of Todie canyon where it joins Grand Gulch. The quiet and solitude--the sun rising slowly from the east--all was right with the world. Sam had stayed below to investigate local mice, I guess.

 
 

Along the eight miles between Todie and Bullet Canyon I stopped to explore four sets of ruins. Around 1 P. M. I rested in the shade for an hour with my novel, Lonesome Dove, by Larry McMurtry. When the midday sun bore down into the canyon that proved to be the best strategy. Morning and evening were much more pleasant for hiking.

 

My first view of "Split level ruin". On the way back four days later I didn't remember seeing it! Only after I had my photos developed did I realize I had come upon this magnificent ruin on the way in.

 

Had to take this photo of cactus in full bloom. One must be cautious when attempting to "smell the roses"!

 

I set up camp at the junction of Bullet Canyon--this time simply laying my bag under a ledge rather than setting up the tent. I left my tent there for the return trip and didn't use it the rest of the way. Next time I won't bother to bring a tent into a canyon--there are plenty of alcoves for shelter.

 

After cooking up my evening meal of risotto I was invigorated enough to run three miles up Bullet Canyon to see the unforgettably glorious ruins of "Jailhouse" (at right) and "Perfect Kiva".  Initially I had seen some ruins that might <possibly> be the famous ruins. I asked some people camping below, but they had not a clue what I was talking about when I asked the whereabouts of "Jailhouse ruin". Then, serendipitously, a woman appeared around the next corner and graciously directed me up to high ledge where with a bit of mild climbing I would come on the fabulous Jailhouse ruin.

 

Below are the unexplained "moon" pictographs of Jailhouse ruin. They date from the "Basketmaker" era, or some 500 years before the cliffdwellers. Richard Wetherill, the amatuer archaeologist of the 1890's, first determined the separation of Anasazi's into "basket maker" and cliffdweller because the cliffdwellers purposefully flattened the backs of their skulls. The basketmakers, so named on account of the profusion of baskets in their burial sites, had no such deformities, also their mummified bodies and burial sites were on the strata below the cliffdwellers.

 

Perfect Kiva! What a marvel! When I climbed down the ladder into the kiva I let my imagination take me back to the smokefilled gathering hall of the ancients.  So quiet, so peaceful.

 

The next morning we proceeded once again at a leisurely pace, this time starting just after 7 A.M. When going solo I don't waste time with breakfast or even coffee.  The best times for travel are the hours just before and after the dawn.  About 1030 I stopped at a splendid two-story structure, after climbing up to it and examining it up close, I dropped down to the slow moving creek, washed my hair and cleaned up a bit. After reading from my novel, I dozed in the sun for a bit.  Leaving my pack behind we venture up Green Canyon. Found some ruins not on either of my maps, including a well-preserved "green" painted dwelling--possibly the reason for the name Green Canyon? At the end of the canyon was an impassable dryfall emptying into a green pool (at right). Sam got a drink--I opted to wait for a more clear flowing stream!

 

Donning my pack once again we continued on our course down Grand Gulch.

 

The strange spire at right is a prominent landmark known as the Totem Pole.  It is visible for quite some distance.

 

Seeing this the first time through I didn't realize this ruin was "Split level" ruin. I spent more time examining it four days later on my way back.

 

Step Canyon was my next side canyon diversion. A very long canyon, it must have received its name on account of the step-like dry falls that bring you higher and higher towards the mesa above. About halfway up the canyon I had to some climbing to move around one dryfall--more than Sam felt able to do, so I told him to "wait", little knowing that I would be gone for more than an hour.

Though the canyon went on and on, I continued because the map from Kelsey's guidebook showed a ruin at the very end. As the canyon course rose towards mesa level an Anasazi development seemed increasingly unlikely. Also, the canyon floor was scoured most of the way as if the creek carried much runoff when the rains came--not very advantageous for raising crops.

After going up a final dryfall the canyon opened into a wide expanse. Continuing up the dry river bed I noticed some barbed wire around an alcove in the canyon wall. As I approached I noticed dozens of old rusty cans and old bottles littering the ground. Under the overhang was a large metal chest. It was unlocked and when I opened it I found it nearly filled with perfectly preserved oats. An old bottle of J & B (empty) lay across the top. Next to the chest was a flat rock with the initials E.E. and the date 7/10/40 and the initials J.R. and the date 9/6/14 carved on it.

A closer look at the old cans revealed them to be very old. At the edges of the rust the markings looked like they were from the '40's or earlier. I had come upon an old cowboy camp.

I turned around, not entirely believing there was a ruin up this canyon after all.

Circling the expanse by going to the right along the canyon wall I stumbled on the ruin. Not particularly spectacular as compared to other ruins, but I did find quite a few pottery shards that weren't arranged on a rock for display. People think they are being "helpful" by picking up the shards and grouping them together. I prefer to see them in their original placements. That way each visitor can discover them anew--and leave them alone!

 

As I returned to where Sam awaited I could hear his plaintive howls echoing throughout the canyon. He was one happy wolfdog to see me again! After Step Canyon we were all in. It was a hot day, but I picked up the pack and trudged down the Gulch looking for a suitable camp site under an alcove.

After half an hour we came upon a small ruin, undistinguished but for its many pictographs--notably many hand prints. I wondered if a child didn't get in trouble 1,000 years ago for marking up the wall!